I spent a lot of time tonight in the garage. I had one mishap on the cnc mill. I meant to set the pass depth to 0.09 but instead set it to 0.9″. As you can imagine that did not go well. I needed to reregister the zero for the hole using another hole. Luckily it worked out ok. I really need to find a good free speeds and feeds calculator or buy the popular online one.
Here is a sneak peak into one of the projects I have on my workbench. Stay tuned for updates to find out what I have in store for this little gem.
I don’t want to share the details yet but it should turn out to be a pretty cool little project if everything works out like I hope. I need to do some work developing some other components. I’ll post more details as I progress.
I was thinking of 3d printing a case for the Raspberry Pi I picked up the other day. I jumped onto thingiverse.com and found a laser cut acrylic one designed by Adafruit. I decided to give it a go on the laser cutter using some 1/8″ clear acrylic I had on hand. I think it turned out pretty good. It fits together well but the little tabs that hold it in place break off easily. I am running raspbmc on this one. It is a Raspberry Pi XBMC distro.
I’ve made some changes to speed up the process for making power distribution boards for my multirotors. Basically I use a blue painters masking tape to cover the board and then use the laser to cut out the template. After removing part of the blue mask I spray paint.
I start off with a double sided PCB copper clad blank
I mill and drill the board on the CNC as usual.
After some slight deburring of the copper at the edges I cover the board with high quality blue painters masking tape.
Then I use the laser to cut out a template in the blue mask.
Now that the mask is cut I can remove the part of the mask that I want to apply paint to
I give it a couple of light coats of Painters Touch flat black spray paint making sure all the copper is covered.
After the paint has had a chance to dry a bit I remove the blue tape to expose the copper I want to remove with ferric chloride. I only let it dry for a couple of hours before etching.
Here it is after etching with the copper removed.
Next I remove the paint with acetone and a rag and then use some black electrical tape to cover the pads for where I want to solder the esc’s and power connections to.
Now it gets a coat of the black EZ liner Truck Bed Protector paint to insulate the copper.
Here it is with the esc’s soldered to the pads. I use liquid insulator to cover the connections on the pads. This board is for my new tricopter V2. I’ll be putting a KK2 controller on it.
I came home from a relaxing flying session on Friday night to hear my wife muttering something about a broken dryer as we were just about to head out for dinner. What? A broken dryer? You can’t expect me to leave now. I said give me 5 minutes and went and got my tools. 45 minutes later with the washer and dryer both moved into akward positions exposing years of lint and other lost little items I had diagnosed the fault. The meter on the thermal fuse read open. Not good.
On Saturday morning I headed to AMRE supply and they hooked me up with a new thermal fuse. I also replaced the safety thermostat for good measure as this was recommended by “experts” online. Here are some pictures.